Simon Rogan is a fan of Goodman. Photographer: Richard Vines/BloombergChefs like to entice us into their restaurants. Where do they go on their nights off?
I asked some of the leading U.K. culinary stars where they like to eat inLondon. Their picks range from the formality of establishments like Le Gavroche, where gentlemen must wear a jacket, to the casual pleasures of the Soho noodle bar.
Here’s what the chefs had to say:
Sat Bains (Sat Bains): “I had a brilliant meal at Le Gavroche. I hadn’t been there for 12 years and I was blown away. It was a master class of service, ambiance and food. I was with a table of chefs and if any of us could achieve that in our lifetime, we’d be doing very well. I’ve never seen anything like it. I like Little Social. Every meal I’ve had there has been delicious. Gymkhana is incredible: Indian food is my heritage and they have very exciting dishes.”
Nieves Barragan Mohacho (Barrafina): “I go to Koya Barwhenever I work an early shift. It’s good for one person and I really like the noodles, which they make themselves. On my days off, I always try to go to new places, but when I’m working I go somewhere nearby, likeBarnyard. I like the simplicity. On Sundays, I sometimes go toMerchants Tavern, which is relaxed.”
Brett Graham (Ledbury): “I like theClove Club because Isaac (McHale) is a brilliant young cook and the food is delicious. Dinner at Gymkhanawas one of my best meals of the year: I like everything from the cocktails to the innovative food.Koya in Soho is great because there are always interesting dishes besides the noodles. For steak, it’s hard to beat the Belted Galloway atGoodman Mayfair.”
Skye Gyngell (Spring): “I love River Cafe. It’s a restaurant I go back to time and time again, sitting outside for Sunday lunch. I love everything about it. I go to Koya for delicious noodles. I always go to Quo Vadis -- I love Jeremy (Lee). And Barrafina is one of my all-time favorites in London. For somewhere local in Shepherds Bush, I go to Sufi for delicious Persian food.”
Angela Hartnett (Murano): “I like Pellicci in Bethnal Green. It’s a proper old caff. They are just lovely people. The family has been doing it for decades. And I like Tramshed. It’s a great Sunday night place if you don’t want to think about cooking. It’s walkable from my house, which helps. I enjoy Casse-Croute in Bermondsey. It feels like you’re inFrance. Jose and Zucca are also great and very affordable.”
Tom Kerridge (Hand & Flowers): “There are amazing places popping up all over the place but I do find it difficult not to go and eat Anthony Demetre’s food. I’m a huge fan ofArbutus and Wild Honey. They are two of the best restaurants that London has. And next to Arbutus is another I always go to, Barrafina. I absolutely love it. Then there are two restaurants at a level above everyone else: Hibiscus, where Claude Bosi is just so individual, and Brett Graham at The Ledbury, with some of the best food in Europe.”
Jeremy Lee (Quo Vadis): “St John is my favorite and (St John) Bread & Wine from time to time. They have that beautiful, uncluttered ease and charm that I like so much and the food is delicious, as is the wine, as is the service. They are bonny and delightful. I like Royal China for a Manhattan skyline of dumplings; Viet Grill for great Vietnamese food and the best salt-and-pepper squid in town; Towpath for its calm serenity.”
Nuno Mendes (Chiltern Firehouse): “I spend a lot of time in East London. It’s my home, and I have an affinity for the businesses there. I like the way Lyle’s changes during the day. James Lowe’s food is unique. I often go to Rotorino and the food atRawduck is amazing. Koya is one of the best restaurants in town, and I had a really nice meal at Gymkhana. I want to go back with my wife.”
Pierre Koffmann (Koffmann’s): “The place I always enjoy the most is Hereford Road because the food is very good and simple. It’s almost like home cooking. For the same reason, I like Le Colombier, where the staff are very nice and it’s a bistro atmosphere. You can have the fruits de mer and a rib of beef, or grouse now. Garnier I like for the same reason and Brasserie Chavot for the beautiful food. I had a fantastic meal at Rivea.”
Michel Roux Jr. (Le Gavroche): “I’ve been several times to Abbeville Kitchen in Clapham. Recently I had a lovely bowl of borlotti beans with a neck of lamb. It was perfectly cooked. It’s real comfort food: hearty and delicious. The Dairy is an unsung hero of Clapham. The food is modern but not silly. They even grow their own vegetables on the roof. I enjoy the new Roka in Mayfair. It’s just round the corner from Le Gavroche. I finally made it toDabbous and I enjoyed it. Everything on the plate belongs there.”
Simon Rogan (Fera): “I love the cuisine at Roka Mayfair, which is three doors from where I live. And I’ve been to Antidote because one of my boys, Chris Johns, is chef there. And Mikael Jonsson of Hedone is heavily involved, so you know it will be good. I’d better mention my (Maybourne Hotel Group) stablemates. Helene Darroze is really special. I was very impressed with her food and Marcus (Wareing) likewise.”
Karam Sethi (Gymkhana): “My wife and I like to go to a few places, such as Yauatcha, Roka and Barrafina. We’ll have small plates in each place. I’m just back from San Sebastian and that’s what you do in the pintxos bars there. For a complete blowout, I love going to Zuma. And for high-end haute cuisine I’d probably go to The Ledbury. I like Tommi’s for a good burger and Busaba for Thai, and I’m also a big fan of Lahore Kebab House.”
Lee Westcott (Typing Room): “The best places are Clove Club and theLedbury. At the Clove Club, it’s not over-complicated food. It’s simple on the plate and the atmosphere is good: it’s chilled and they look after you well. Everything you eat at The Ledbury is perfectly cooked and seasoned. I’ve been there about six times this year. The Dairy is good and Koya is a once-a-month treat. I also like Lyle’s -- which is cool and relaxed -- and Kitchen Table.”
Here are the results of similar surveys I conducted in 2007, 2008 and 2009.
(Richard Vines is the chief food critic for Bloomberg. Follow him on Twitter@richardvines)
To contact the reporter on this story: Richard Vines in London atrvines@bloomberg.net
To contact the editors responsible for this story: Jared Sandberg atjedsandberg@bloomberg.netRobert Valpuesta, Justin Ocean
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